Almshouses in Amsterdam

Amsterdam is a popular tourist destination for North Americans and Europeans. Even though many of the streets are only for pedestrians they are still crowded and at times chaotic. One day while walking on the Kalverstraat my friend showed me a massive door but on that day it was locked.

Recently we were able to gain entrance and explore the Begijnhof. Initially the Begijnhof was established in the late 1300’s as a residence for lay religious women (differing form nuns in that they did not take vows). Similar Almshouses (Hofjes) were built during the 17^th century in the Jordan district to shelter the widows of sailors.

Entering the courtyards of these residences you generally find a cluster of twelve apartments around a central garden and you forget that you are in a city. While there are twenty one of these Horfjes still managed by the local government in the Jordaan district they are private homes so access to these areas occurs rarely. As a tourist I feel quite fortunate to have seen three.

 

Volcanos

We have learned to fear volcanos: they emit gases, erupt lava and occasionally explode. In many cultures they have been your “go to” place for human sacrifice. Nicaragua is a country that straddles two tectonic plates and is part of the Pacific Ring of Fire: you can literally see the chain of cones. Volcanos in this country preside over the landscape and offer sanctuaries of biodiversity for plant and animal species, dormant craters act as reservoirs and porous rock filters water for the farms below.

The Mombacho Volcano features a cloud rainforest at 1150m with hiking trails that people can enjoy guided or independently. Downhill from the primary forest you find the coffee growing area and can either learn about the harvesting process or go zip lining. The Canopy Zip Line tour is set over seven legs of varying lengths and difficulty. As a first time zip liner rather than feel intimidated I felt a connection to the rain forest environment.

Masaya Volcano is much more easily accessed: it is an active site and the cone has been deforested from an eruption in the 2013. Drivers can park within twenty feet of the rim to look into its active caldera. While there are trails around the craters, exploring the area depends upon wind direction because the gases emitted can make you sick after a while.

East of Leon, Casa Negro Volcano is a site for sand boarding (like snow-boarding but on volcanic sand). While ascending the cone, boarders get to enjoy vistas of the surrounding peaks. It felt very primal…after reaching the top I got to run the rim trail before descending on my board. Sand boarding involves wearing coveralls, heavy gloves and a visor that protect you from the coarse sand. It was much easier than I expected: the slope looks steep but the sand is deep and offers some resistance for controlling your speed.

 

My experience at all three locations felt very “elemental”. Volcanos are a force of nature but the landscapes they generate are quite inspiring. Perhaps “experiencing life on the edge” isn’t an entirely bad thing.

Travelling to El Salvador

I recently had the opportunity to visit Suchitoto in Northern El Salvador, Puerto Barillas on Jiquilisco Bay and the country’s sun coast. During my time there I saw nature preserves, heritage architecture and expansive beaches. In my opinion there are a lot of contrasts and while I felt intimidated by the razor wire and presence of guns many of the people in the hospitality industry were genuinely warm. El Salvador has a great potential for tourism in the next decade.

Suchitoto overlooks a man-made lake which carries the same name. Traditional Spanish homes mark the cobble stone streets of this colonial city.  During the civil war of the 1980’s the town sustained heavy bombing and many people deserted their homes. The government is now working to revive the area as a tourist destination by restoring and repurposing these abandoned buildings as hotels and restaurants. While walking the streets we visited the Iglesia Santa Lucia which is renowned for its interior woodwork and saw a woman selling bread from a large basket that was perched on her head. The area also hosts avian tourists: from my terrace at the La Posada de Suchitlán and I saw a variety of birds and insects then during our afternoon tour of Lake Suchitoto we went to a massive colony of egrets and cormorants.

In contrast Jiquilisco Bay is a mangrove wetland which offers protection to a diverse array of species. On my boat trip to the turtle conservation project I saw a crocodile, spoon bills and a tiger heron.  Guests staying at Puerto Barillas have the opportunity to discover the bay’s wildlife through boat tours, fishing excursions and kayak rentals. Our group took part in a turtle conservation project that capture, measures and tags Hawksbill turtles. Part of the Eastern Pacific Hawksbill Initiative, this project offers visitors the opportunity to participate in their volunteer program http://www.hawksbill.org/get-involved/volunteer/ .  

The Costa del Sol Beach spans a distance of twelve kilometres and is popular with surfers. The evening I was there the water was warm and the waves were great for body surfing but also a little intimidating. This area is located thirty-five kilometres from San Salvador Airport making it a nice stopover point for passengers transiting the country.

Currently the destination has some infrastructure issues: with the exception of the Costa del Sol most tourist areas have poor road access and English is not well comprehended even within the hospitality industry. Personal security was always at the back of my mind: even though a recent customer got a local taxi at the airport I recommend that visitors pre arrange ground transportation before arrival.